Prym Sock Loom
I purchased a Prym sock loom today. I have read mixed reviews of them but thought I would give it a try. This knitting loom is similar to the round knitting looms but it is oval in shape. It has a rubberized base and the metal pegs look like bent paper clips. With the unique paper clip shape to the pegs, there is plenty of space to pick up or hook the stitch as you are knitting the loops. There are no rough edges and I find that it is quite easy to hold in your hand, and compact and portable to toss into my purse or knitting bag to take with me. The Prym knitting loom comes with a pickup stick that looks similar to a knitting needle. I use this for picking up the stitches but have also found it handy to also have a small crochet hook for picking up different weights of yarn.
The Prym Sock Loom comes in 3 sizes ranging from small to wide feet:
Prym Sock Loom
SIZE | # PEGS | CIRCUMFERENCE | UK | EU | US |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Small | 28 pegs | 26 cm | 3.15 - 12.5 | 20 - 31 | 4 - 13 |
Medium | 32 pegs | 29.5 cm | 0 - 5 | 32 - 38 | 2 - 7 |
Large | 36 pegs | 33 cm | 6 - 11 | 39 - 46 | 7.5 - 13 |
Sock Size Knitting Chart
You can make the socks any length you like, regardless of which size of knitting loom you purchased.
This chart gives the length for foot of the sock for different shoe sizes.
Knitting with this type of sock loom is very similar to spool or cork knitting.
How to Use a Corker
EU | UK | US | FOOT LENGTH |
---|---|---|---|
39 - 40 | 5.50 - 6.5 | 7.50 - 8.5 | 16 cm |
41 - 42 | 7 - 8 | 9 - 10 | 17 cm |
43 - 44 | 8.5 - 9.5 | 10.5 - 11.5 | 18 cm |
45 - 46 | 10 -011.5 | 12 - 13 | 19 cm |
The instructions that came with the knitting loom are a bit difficult to follow as they are written in several languages.
I have rewritten the instructions to make this easier to understand.
To knit on this loom, each loop round is followed by a cast off round. Together this makes a knitted row.
To start, For thicker yarns, loop the yarn around each peg in 2 rounds, followed by a cast off round.
For finer yarns, loop the yarn around each peg in 3 rounds, followed by a cast off round.
I am using Regia 4 ply sock yarn for this pair of socks. Because I am using a fine yarn, I am using the Triple loop method, looping 3 rounds onto the pegs before casting off.
Looping Round
1. Place the yarn from back to front onto starting position 0, leaving a length of 15 cm hanging from the back.
2. Loop the yarn counter-clockwise around the peg 1L, then around peg 1R, 2R, 3R and so on, working your way clock-wise around the loom.
3. The first looping round is finished when peg 1L has been looped twice.
4. Loop the second round in the same way on top of the first round.
The round is finished when peg 1L has been looped 3 times.
Cast off round
Use the cast-off needle to cast off.
To do this, pick up the bottom loop on the peg and lift it up and over the peg.
After each cast off, push the stitches down the peg to adjust the tension.
Continue to cast off working your way around the loom.
To cast off Double loops, Lift the bottom stitch over the top stitch and over the peg. The peg now has one stitch left.
To cast off Triple loops, Lift the bottom stitch over the 2 upper stitches and over the peg. The peg now has 2 stitches left.
Continue working around the sock knitter, alternating between Looping and Casting off rows.
The knitting develops behind the pegs. After about 5-10 rows (depending on the thickness of your yarn) you will begin to see the knitted rows below the knitting loom. I found it much easier to control the tension once the sock had some length as I could gently tug on the bottom of the sock to keep the yarn from slipping off the pegs.
Continue knitting around until you reach the desired length for the cuff of your sock.
How to Knit on a Prym Sock Loom – You Tube Video
I filmed this video many years ago now, on a Camcorder.(2013) I realize that the camera was not set up at a good angle for viewing, but at the time, it was the best that I could do. So I apologize in advance if you have difficulties seeing this I have also since then developed a bit of arthritis in my hands, so I find that working on a Prym knitting loom is difficult for my fingers. I now use knitting needles again. ***********Prym Sock Loom – Heel Knitting
In an earlier article I described how to knit in the round on a Prym sock loom. I find the instructions that come with the knitting loom a bit difficult to understand, so I have adapted the method slightly. I hope that you will find this a bit easier to follow. Please let me know if anything is not clear or you need additional help.
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For this sock I used Regia 4 ply sock yarn – which is quite fine so I have used a double set of loops as I cast on. For heavier weight yarns you would only use 1 loop around the pegs. I am using an E wrap stitch for knitting this sock.
The Prym sock loom is conveniently marked with the start and end positions for turning the heel. In the centre of the knitting loom you will see labels 1R, 1L and 16R, 16L (for the Medium size loom)
Once you have knit the length of the leg of the sock and you are ready to start the heel, you will be working on only 1 half of the stitches to complete the heel. So knitting from 1R to 16R and reversing back, knitting from 16R to 1 R. The remaining stitches 1L to 16L stay on the hooks, untouched until you complete the heel.
Decreasing the Heel
Heel Row 1: To knit the first row of the heel, starting at 1R, knit as usual, wrap the yarn around the pegs from 1R to 16R and cast off.
Heel Row 2: At 16R reverse the direction working your way back to 1R, wrap the yarn around the pegs and cast off that row.
Heel Row 3: When you are back to 1R, then work your way back, this time starting at 2R. Wrap the pegs from 2R to 15R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 4: Reverse the direction, knitting your way back to 2R.
Heel Row 5: Starting at 3R, wrap the pegs to 14R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 6: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 14R to 3R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 7: Starting at 4R, wrap the pegs to 13R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 8: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 13R to 4R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 9: Starting at 5R, wrap the pegs to 12R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 10: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 12R to 5R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 11: Starting at 6R, wrap the pegs to 11R and cast off the row.
Heel Row 12: Reverse the direction and wrap the pegs from 11R to 6R and cast off the row.

The instructions that come with the Prym loom suggest that for the Left sock, work your way from 1L to 16L in the same fashion, but in my opinion this doesn’t really matter as usually socks for left and right feet are the same, unless you are knitting a pattern into each sock that is only on one side.
Once you have knit the heel back and forth to pegs 6R – 11R the heel will have a V-shape.
You will now do the reverse of the knitting as you did above, but increasing a stitch on either side, working your way from 6R back to 1R.
Increasing the Heel
Because you have increased rows over part of the sock, there will be a gap or hole left at the end of each row of the heel. In order to avoid this gap from forming, you will need to also pick up or carry a stitch from the next peg as you knit the next row. This is similar to passing over a slip stitch in traditional knitting.
To do this, as you work each row back and forth, pick up a stitch from the previous peg and lift it to the peg you are starting and ending on.
I find it easier to use a small 2.25 mm crochet hook to do this, rather than the pickup stick that comes with the Prym loom.
Crochet Hook Size Chart
Heel Row 13:
Working on peg 6R, Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 5R and lift it onto 6R. There will now be 3 loops on peg 6R.
Do the same on the opposite side. Pick up the loop from the back of peg 12R and lift it onto peg 11R. Peg 11R will now have 3 stitches.
Wrap the loops from 6R to 11R and cast off the row.
(As you wrap the loop around the first peg (6R) this will now have 4 stitches on it. Cast these off until you have 2 stitches remaining. Continue to knit around to 11R – where you will have 4 stitches on the peg, knit these off back to 2 stitches)
Heel Row 14: Knitting in reverse, wrap the loops from 11R to 6R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 15:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 4R and lift it to 5R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 13R and lift it to 12R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 5R to 12R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 16: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 12R to 5R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 17:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 3R and lift it to 4R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 14R and lift it to 13R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 4R to 13R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 18: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 13R to 4R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 19:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 2R and lift it to 3R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 15R and lift it to 14R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 3R to 14R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 20: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 14R to 3R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 21:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 1R and lift it to 2R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 16R and lift it to 15R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 2R to 15R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 22: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 15R to 2R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 23:
Pick up the loop from the back of the previous peg 1L and lift it to 1R.
On the other side of the sock, Pick up the loop from back of 16L and lift it to 16R.
Wrap the loops starting with peg 1R to 16R and cast off the stitches.
Heel Row 24: Knitting in reverse, wrap the pegs from 16R to 1R and cast off the stitches.
Categories: KNITTING